Chitose Abe fought again tears backstage. It’s been two years that she hasn’t traveled to Paris to current her Sacai assortment. Usually, she comes 4 instances a 12 months, twice for girls’s and twice for males’s, however COVID has stored her in her Tokyo residence base for the reason that begin of the pandemic.
To mark her return, Abe mentioned, “I actually needed to make clothes very impeccably.” The gathering was recognizably Sacai, but it surely was pitched extra towards particular events in a type of celebration of her return to the runway. The present opened with an extended gown whose tank prime and ball skirt form had been stripped of ritual whereas retaining a cool type of grandeur. Mannequin Julia Nobis’s Cartier Trinity ear cuff, a part of a first-of-its-kind collaboration between the jeweler and a dressmaker, popping out later this 12 months, contributed to the dressed-up temper.
The Abe methodology is to create clothes each novel and acquainted by hybridizing totally different objects collectively. Previously, a peacoat would possibly include a puffer again or a leather-based Perfecto would commingle with a tweed blazer. Items like these have turn into Sacai icons, simple to identify for these within the know. This time round, the concept was much less about her signature mash-ups and extra about experimenting with singular items. On boxy males’s jackets, Abe lower into the sample to create bra shapes worn excessive of them, their elasticated straps gathering the again of jackets into excessive bustle shapes. The gathering’s lengthy skirts, in the meantime, had been break up up the middle back and front, with both sides gathered to the thighs. If that sounds sophisticated, it truly added a pleasant ease to an in any other case dramatic silhouette.
That’s one in all Abe’s abilities, delivering loads of look just by tinkering with form, the place different designers resort to embellishment. Amidst the lean shapes elongated by raised waists that dominated the lineup was a standout parka whose khaki shoulders had been spliced with a burst of three-dimensional crimson satin, as if a winter jacket had reproduced with a mid-century bubble gown. It was an actual deal with seeing Abe’s creative work in actual life once more.